Sovereign
Man
April
14, 2014
Buenos
Aires, Argentina
Two
bright white eyes looked at me inquisitively through the small hatch
in the nondescript metal door.
I
quickly glanced around the dark, empty streets of the Palermo
district in Buenos Aires and whispered the password.
The
door clanked open, revealing a small antechamber and a phone booth. I
picked up the receiver and punched in a 4-digit code, and a second
door opened.
Now I
could begin to see the interior of “Frank’s”.
It
was lit with elaborate chandeliers and accented with ornate leather
seats, and Sidney Bechet was in full swing on his saxophone.
It
was amazing, it looked just like a New York City speakeasy from the
1920s back in the days of prohibition and bootleg moonshine.
And
that’s exactly what the proprietor intended—a nod to a time when
an entire population was constantly having to outsmart destructive
government policy.
Just
to do something as simple as having a beer, people had to come up
with elaborate schemes, passwords, and secret locations on
nondescript streets.
Coincidentally,
Frank’s is the perfect illustration, not only of New York in the
1920s, but of all of Argentina today.
Argentina
is one of the places where debilitating capital controls are the
rule.
The
government has its ‘official’ exchange rate, and they’ve
outlawed unofficial transactions with foreign currency.
But
like prohibition-era bootleggers, an entire cottage industry has
emerged with legions of street dealers trading currency far beyond
the law.
Capital
controls are only the start. This government has tried just about
everything—price controls, credit controls, even people controls.
They’ve
nationalized private assets. They’ve thrown dissenting economists
in jail.
Now
they’re going around collecting everyone’s fingerprints. They’ve
just added another 100 products to the list of controlled prices.
And
yet, inflation still rages. People’s standards of living are being
destroyed.
The
pesos that they earn are buying less and less. Despite the controls,
prices are still rising much faster than wages.
All
of this has led to mass poverty returning in a big way. Beggars once
again line the streets in Buenos Aires. There’s been a noticeable
increase just since I was here two months ago.
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